The Struggle Climbing Show

Coach Eric Horst continues the Road to 13a series with me as we explore my summer training (and what I did wrong), and then gets specific on how to level up my endurance and tactics for the hardest route I've ever taken on.
-
Eric is the host of the Training4Climbing podcast, author of numerous climbing bibles, pro coach for decades, founder of Physivantage nutrition, and all around crusher in his own right. Regardless of your style, grade, or goals, this conversation will help you to plan your projects and training in a manner that leads to big gains. Topics covered include:
- Reviewing my summer training and where I hit and missed - Overview of the 13s I tried, and which one I chose- How to break down a limit route for training and tactics- Should I keep or lose strength training as we get in-season- How to build maximum endurance in 6 weeks- The impact of body composition on an overhung route- The power of believing
 
This BONUS episode is brought to you by Patrons and Subscribers of the show. If you're getting value from this podcast it would mean a lot to me if you'd consider coming aboard. For as little as $5 per month you get full access to Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, extended and ad-free episodes, and other cool perks. Thanks for supporting me if you can! www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow
 
-
Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and @eric_horst
-
The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. 
-This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plugtone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.-The struggle makes us stronger! Thanks for listening. 

Elite climber James Lucas shares his struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game
 
 
-
 
 
As a climber, James is incredibly accomplished and well-rounded, with impressive big wall sends that include freeing El Cap’s Freerider in a day along with loads of other big wall sends in the valley including the FA of Final Frontier, a Grade V 13b in the Valley. And while James is perhaps most experienced and known for his work on big walls, he has pushed himself into other disciplines with the goal of sending V10 boulders and 5.14 sport, the former of which he has done, and the latter of which he is zeroing in on. Beyond climbing, James is a prolific writer and photographer. He served as Senior Associate Editor of Climbing Magazine for 30 issues and has contributed to countless other climbing outlets, from Rock and Ice to Outside Mag to the Alpinist. This guy has some of the absolute best stories from his dirtbag days living in his Saturn and the caves of Yosemite, climbing with some of the biggest names in our sport, and bringing curiosity and stoke to all that he takes on. 
 
 
-
 
 
CHAPTERS:
 
Struggle: 0:05:43
 
Training: 0:09:59
 
Nutrition: 0:21:36
 
Tactics: 0:29:15
 
Mental Game: 0:42:15
 
Purpose: 0:53:26
 
 
Follow along on Instagram @james_lucas and @thestruggleclimbingshow. 
 
 
-
 
 
The Struggle is on YouTube! Watch interviews with the sport's best climbers come to life with amazing footage and actionable takeaways that'll help you to level up your Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game. Check it all out at YouTube.com/@thestruggleclimbingshow. 
 
 
-
 
BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE:
 
 
PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. 
 
 
Frictitious Climbing: Check out their revolutionary doorway mount for hangboards (no drilling!) along with their amazing boards for training your fingers at home or on the road. Score 20% off a board when you purchase a doorway mount. 
 
 
Crimpd: The absolute best tool for self-coached climbers to stay on track with training. Visit Crimpd.com to download the app for FREE and take your training to the next level. 
 
 
-
 
 
The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.
 
 
-
 
 
Want to be a podcast hero and gain access to extended and ad-free episodes, Pro Clinics with the sport's best, and rad swag? Support the show and the climbers who make it by becoming a Patron at www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow
 
 
-
 
Still reading? You deserve a free sticker: Please rate and review the show -- it really helps us to reach a wider audience! Snap a pic of your review, post to IG, and tag @thestruggleclimbingshow so that we can find you, and we'll send you a sticker just because you're rad.
 
 
-
 
This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
 
 
-
 
The struggle makes us stronger!
 

Elite climber Emil Abrahamsson shares his struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game
 
 
-
 
Emil is an incredibly strong boulderer with a particular talent for compression and sloper problems, along with harnessing dynamic movement. He has sent loads of the world’s toughest blocks, flashing up to V12 and redpointing up to V15, which he accomplished on the Dave Graham test piece, Story of Two Worlds. He documented that process beautifully on his YouTube Channel – which has over 100k subscribers and is growing fast. He has a real talent for bringing us viewers into his process, riding the rollercoaster of emotions from beginning to end. He also creates fantastic training content, most famous of which is probably the No Hang Protocol video he put out a couple years ago and went viral. Emil really exemplifies the intangible traits that make elite climbers who they are – an incredible work ethic, unstoppable passion, and seemingly unlimited psych to dig deeper and try harder than even seems possible.
 
 
-
 
CHAPTERS:
 
Struggle: 0:08:43
 
Training: 0:13:36
 
Nutrition: 0:27:22
 
Tactics: 0:42:37
 
Mental Game: 0:56:07
 
Purpose: 1:06:22
 
Takeaways: 1:16:11
 
 
Follow along on Instagram @emilabrahamsson_ and @thestruggleclimbingshow. 
 
 
 
-
 
The Struggle is on YouTube! Watch interviews with the sport's best climbers come to life with amazing footage and actionable takeaways that'll help you to level up your Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game. Check it all out at YouTube.com/@thestruggleclimbingshow. 
 
 
-
 
BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE:
 
 
PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. 
 
 
Fricition Labs is the official chalk sponsor of The Struggle. Level up your grip game with the best in the biz, free of fillers, rosins, and drying agents so your skin stays healthier. Use code STRUGGLE20 for 20% off at frictionlabs.com. 
 
 
-
 
 
The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.
 
 
-
 
 
Want to be a podcast hero and gain access to extended and ad-free episodes, Pro Clinics with the sport's best, and rad swag? Support the show and the climbers who make it by becoming a Patron at www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow
 
 
-
 
Still reading? You deserve a free sticker: Please rate and review the show -- it really helps us to reach a wider audience! Snap a pic of your review, post to IG, and tag @thestruggleclimbingshow so that we can find you, and we'll send you a sticker just because you're rad.
 
 
-
 
This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
 
 
-
 
Hope your climbing is going well, and if it's a struggle, just remember that The Struggle makes us stronger! 
 

Dr. Natasha Barnes, elite climber and power lifter, demystifies weight training and offers up clear and simple guidance for climbers of all levels and training ages to build overall fitness that will serve us on and off the wall.
 
-
 
This episode is sponsored by Patrons and Subscribers of The Struggle. Enjoy the full Pro Clinic, extended and ad-free episodes, and other perks by joining The Struggle Pro Access community. There's a level for everyone 🙌. Learn more at Patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow or if you listen on apple, you can subscribe right here in your pod app. 
 
-
 
Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and @natashabarnes
If you'd like to work with Dr. Barnes, check out her various programs and coaching options at www.natashabarnesrehab.com
-
 
This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
 
-
 
The struggle makes us stronger!

Elite climber Nina Williams shares her struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game (Part 2)
 
 
-
 
 
Nina is a world famous climber, perhaps best known for her cutting edge high balls which include heady and impressive first female ascents of the stunning Buttermilk test pieces Too Big to Flail, a 50 foot V10, Evilution Direct, a 45 foot V11, and Ambrosia, a 50 ft V11.  She is incredibly well rounded, with big wall ascents including the FFA of Grade VI Father Time, a 2,000 foot 5.13b in Yosemite, and on sport, Nina recently sent the nails hard 5.14b Rumney classic China Beach. Nina is a mental coach, board member of the American Alpine Club, and is passionate about her education and training in inter- and intra- personal communication… and she brings it ALL to this conversation.
 
 
Part 2 explores energy systems training, proper fueling for a send go, short-person tactics, managing fear, getting off-route on a free solo, and so much more! 
 
 
-
 
CHAPTERS:
 
Training: 0:05:15
 
Nutrition: 0:18:35
 
Tactics: 0:25:30
 
Mental Game: 0:35:52
 
Purpose: 0:57:04
 
Takeaways: 1:05:22
 
 
Follow along on Instagram @sheneenagins and @thestruggleclimbingshow. 
 
 
-
 
The Struggle is on YouTube! Watch interviews with the sport's best climbers come to life with amazing footage and actionable takeaways that'll help you to level up your Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game. Check it all out at YouTube.com/@thestruggleclimbingshow. 
 
 
-
 
BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE:
 
 
PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. 
 
 
Frictitious Climbing: Check out their revolutionary doorway mount for hangboards (no drilling!) along with their amazing boards for training your fingers at home or on the road. Score 20% off a board when you purchase a doorway mount.
 
 
Crimpd: The absolute best tool for self-coached climbers to stay on track with training. Visit Crimpd.com to download the app for FREE and take your training to the next level. 
 
 
-
 
The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.
 
 
-
 
 
Want to be a podcast hero and gain access to extended and ad-free episodes, Pro Clinics with the sport's best, and rad swag? Support the show and the climbers who make it by becoming a Patron at www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow
 
 
-
 
Still reading? You deserve a free sticker: Please rate and review the show -- it really helps us to reach a wider audience! Snap a pic of your review, post to IG, and tag @thestruggleclimbingshow so that we can find you, and we'll send you a sticker just because you're rad.
 
 
-
 
This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
 
 
-
 
The struggle makes us stronger. Let's climb hard and do good things in the world!
 

Elite climber Nina Williams shares her struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game (Part 1 of 2)
 
 
-
 
Nina is a world famous climber, perhaps best known for her cutting edge high balls which include heady and impressive first female ascents of the stunning Buttermilk test pieces Too Big to Flail, a 50 foot V10, Evilution Direct, a 45 foot V11, and Ambrosia, a 50 ft V11.  She is incredibly well rounded, with big wall ascents including the FFA of Grade VI Father Time, a 2,000 foot 5.13b in Yosemite, and on sport, Nina recently sent the nails hard 5.14b Rumney classic China Beach. Nina is a mental coach, board member of the American Alpine Club, and is passionate about her education and training in inter- and intra- personal communication… and she brings it ALL to this conversation.
 
 
Part 1 focuses on a personal and vulnerable exploration into relationships - romantic and otherwise - and how they’ve impacted Nina’s climbing, career, and life. Her perspective and insights are sure to help the rest of us as we explore our own relationships, belay-tionships, and egos... in our never-ending quest to become better climbers, partners, and humans. 
 
 
-
 
Follow along on Instagram @sheneenagins and @thestruggleclimbingshow. 
 
 
-
 
The Struggle is on YouTube! Watch interviews with the sport's best climbers come to life with amazing footage and actionable takeaways that'll help you to level up your Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game. Check it all out at YouTube.com/@thestruggleclimbingshow. 
 
 
-
 
Fricition Labs is the official chalk sponsor of The Struggle. Level up your grip game with the best in the biz, free of fillers, rosins, and drying agents so your skin stays healthier. Use code STRUGGLE20 for 20% off at frictionlabs.com. 
 
 
PhysiVantage is the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Visit www.physivantage.com/discount/STRUGGLE15 to receive 15% off your full priced nutrition order.
 
 
-
 
The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.
 
 
-
 
Want to be a podcast hero and gain access to extended and ad-free episodes, Pro Clinics with the sport's best, and rad swag? Support the show and the climbers who make it by becoming a Patron at www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow
 
 
-
 
Still reading? You deserve a free sticker: Please rate and review the show -- it really helps us to reach a wider audience! Snap a pic of your review, post to IG, and tag @thestruggleclimbingshow so that we can find you, and we'll send you a sticker just because you're rad.
 
 
-
 
This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
 
 
-
 
The struggle makes us stronger. Let's climb hard and do good things in the world!
 

Cameron Hörst, a rising star and 9a climber in his anti-style, takes us to rock school with this Pro Clinic as he identifies common pitfalls and shares tips and tricks for Beginner, Intermediate, and Advanced climbers to identify and embrace our anti-style... whether we're new to the concept or looking to bust through a plateau. 
 
-
 
This episode is sponsored by Patrons and Subscribers of The Struggle. Enjoy the full Pro Clinic, extended and ad-free episodes, and other perks by joining The Struggle Pro Access community. There's a level for everyone 🙌. Learn more at Patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow or if you listen on apple, you can subscribe right here in your pod app. 
 
-
 
Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and @cam_horst.
You can connect with Cameron and explore working with him as a coach at cameronhorst.com
-
 
This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
 
-
 
The struggle makes us stronger. Let's climb hard and do good things in the world!

Elite climber Chris Sharma shares his struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game.
-
Chris needs absolutely zero introduction but it’s worth hitting a few of the highlights because it’s so absolutely mind boggling when you’re reminded what he has achieved in this sport. At just 14 years old he won the adult US bouldering nationals. At 15 he freed the hardest route in North America at the time, 14c Necessary Evil. At just 20 years old Chris sent the world’s first consensus 5.15a, Ceuse’s Biographie / AKA Realization. He was also the first to climb 15b with Jumbo Love, and the second to climb 15c, just after Adam Ondra, as the two of them worked together on La Dura Dura. Chris also took deep water soloing to groundbreaking new levels when he sent the king line of Es Pontas, 15a, in Mallorca. He later put down a 15b deep water solo, Alasha, which is the hardest of the discipline. Chris has been dominating for so long, that it might be easy to simply refer to his groundbreaking contributions in the past tense… but that would be a mistake. Chris, just a couple months ago, sent his HARDEST route EVER, Sleeping Lion in Siurana, of which he gave the grade of 5.15c.
 
Chris climbs with such flow, and carries himself with an almost mythical yogi demeanor, it’d be understandable to just assume there hasn’t been a whole lot of struggle for him throughout his three decades at the top of the sport. But as you’ll hear today, there’s been plenty of struggle, both physically and mentally. Today Chris opens up with stories that I don’t believe he’s ever shared before.
-
Follow along on Instagram @chris_sharma and @thestruggleclimbingshow.
-
THANK YOU TO THE SPONSORS WHO HAVE BROUGHT YOU THE STRUGGLE AT ZERO COST:
Crimpd is the official fitness app sponsor of The Struggle. Visit Crimpd.com to download the app for FREE and take your training to the next level.
 
PhysiVantage is the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Visit www.physivantage.com/discount/STRUGGLE15 to receive 15% off your full priced nutrition order.
-
The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.
-
This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
-
The struggle makes us stronger. Let's climb hard and do good things in the world!

Elite climber Dr. Thomas Cunningham shares his struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game. 
 
-
 
Dr Thomas Cunningham is a weekend warrior… who climbs at an elite level. He’s a board certified emergency medicine physician who has published several papers, holds multiple patents, and is currently working as Research Faculty at the University of Louisville. He’s also a husband and father of three littles. The guy is as busy as can be, but can he climb? Yeah. He just sent the super classic Red River Gorge test piece, Southern Smoke, which is pretty much the pumpiest 14c sport route you can imagine, and he’s working on the 9a direct start for that. He has also bouldered 8a, trad climbed 8a, and put up FAs up to 8a… and he probably puts in less time than you at the gym or the crag. Today he shares his scientific method as it comes to training and nutrition, and what he feels all of us – from beginners to pros – can do to optimize our time and level up in whatever our climbing goals are.
 
-
 
CHAPTERS:
Struggle: 0:06:58
Training: 0:08:57
Nutrition: 0:32:34
Tactics: 0:45:49
Mental Game: 1:00:20
Purpose: 1:11:12
Takeaways: 1:26:54
 
-
 
Follow along on Instagram @thomascunninghammd and @thestruggleclimbingshow. 
 
Gain (zero cost!) access to Dr. Cunningham's newsletter, blog, and research papers... or book a consult to really take things up a level: www.thomascunninghammd.com
 
Interested in Thomas's fitness tracker of choice? Get a free WHOOP 4.0 and one month free by CLICKING HERE. 
 
-
 
The Struggle is on YouTube, y'all! I'm so psyched. Watch the best moments of my interviews with the sport's best climbers come to life with amazing footage and actionable takeaways that'll help you to level up your Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game. Check it all out at YouTube.com/@thestruggleclimbingshow. 
 
-
 
PhysiVantage is the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Visit www.physivantage.com/discount/STRUGGLE15 to receive 15% off your full priced nutrition order.
 
Crimpd is the official fitness app sponsor of The Struggle. Visit Crimpd.com to download the app for FREE and take your training to the next level. 
 
-
 
The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.
 
-
 
Want to be a podcast hero and score yourself some rad limited edition swag? Support the show and the climbers who make it by becoming a Patron at www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow
 
-
 
Still reading? You deserve a free sticker: Please rate and review the show -- it really helps us to reach a wider audience! Snap a pic of your review, post to IG, and tag @thestruggleclimbingshow so that we can find you, and we'll send you a sticker just because you're rad.
 
-
 
This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
 
-
 
The struggle makes us stronger. Let's climb hard and do good things in the world!
 
 

Alex Honnold dives into the world of bouldering, from exploring the Mellow culture, to what V18 could look like, to high balls and sketchy top-outs... this chat isn't what you're used to hearing about from the biggest name in climbing. 
 
-
 
This episode is in collaboration with our friends at Climbing Gold. Stick around after the interview to hear Climbing Gold's latest episode "Not So Mellow". It's so good!
 
-
 
Follow along on Instagram @alexhonnold, @climbinggold, and @thestruggleclimbingshow. 
 
The Struggle is on YouTube, y'all! I'm so psyched. Watch the best moments of my interviews with the sport's best climbers come to life with amazing footage and actionable takeaways that'll help you to level up your Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game. Check it all out at YouTube.com/@thestruggleclimbingshow. 
 
-
 
PhysiVantage is the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Visit www.physivantage.com/discount/STRUGGLE15 to receive 15% off your full priced nutrition order.
 
-
 
The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.
 
-
 
Want to be a podcast hero and score yourself some rad limited edition swag? Support the show and the climbers who make it by becoming a Patron at www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow
 
-
 
Still reading? You deserve a free sticker: Please rate and review the show -- it really helps us to reach a wider audience! Snap a pic of your review, post to IG, and tag @thestruggleclimbingshow so that we can find you, and we'll send you a sticker just because you're rad.
 
-
 
This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
 
-
 
The struggle makes us stronger. Let's climb hard and do good things in the world!